Back to Sifnos

After a mammoth run of dog sitting, I was to have just over two weeks in Greece. First to visit my friends on Sifnos, then to go back to the island I was living on last year, Serifos. It’s a multi transport combination to get there, of  train, bus then  plane to Athens, finishing the first days travel at our usual hotel, that’s Faros in Piraeus using the metro. A lot of staff have changed since I was in the hotel last year, which is a pity but it’s still a god place to stay. As the boarding gate for my ferry was quite a way from the hotel, I ordered a taxi for the following day. The Anemos is a relatively slow ferry, but new to the ferries that ply these islands. Being slower it’s also cheaper than the jet ones. I was in no rush. It’s a nice ferry, even with a nicely kitted out pet room. I liked one of the cafe areas with the big round windows.

Unknown to me when we stopped at Serifos a friend of mine boarded, I met her just before I got off. She was travelling to Milos for the day, to work. It was so nice to see her then. It was then a short hop to Sifnos where my three friends were there to meet me. We checked into my room, a  new establishment away from the port with views on the harbour and town.  Our first dinner was at the restaurant Cameron where we are all well known and the owners wanted to see how I was doing. As one of my friends was working the following day we got the bus to Artemonas where we had a good wander around its  narrow streets, most not wide enough for cars. We walked down to Apollonia, we had a bit of lunch there and got the bus back. 

One evening we went to visit a friend who lives not far from my room, her house was the sanctuary where I was holed up after I came out of hospital. It was great to see her and her Dutch friends. The following morning we went to the famous Chrisopigi monastery, where another friend has a house, looking over it. It’s one of the most beautiful views I know of on these islands.

 Several of her friends popped in with various cakes which acted as a lunch for us. Unfortunately my friends dog disgraced himself by helping himself to some cat food left out for the strays.. we had dinner in a restaurant I had not been to before, they gave us mini magnums as a treat after the meal and I shared a bit of mine with my friends dog.

We also walked to the church of St Catherine, one of the churches that are on the other side of the town to us, this church has been  photographed multiple times. From here years ago I took a rocky scramble to the end of the promontory with my friends dog, I would not do it now.

As a lot of the tourists have left it’s really quiet, but the taverns and shop owners are still keeping their establishments open, until the weather breaks. It’s easily mid twenties, so not too hot. Unfortunately the building work has started again, so you can see where the next rooms etc are going to appear. As well as the ferries,  ships are coming  in with fuel and building materials like ballast. Sifnos has a much more extensive bus route which  is still running. One of the regular slower boats that is seen all year round has been sold, the Solomos and it’s unclear what will replace it.  I have said this before but very often these Greeks have two jobs, so it was no surprise to see the local ambulance guy working on a nearby building site. 

Our next day out had us meet two friends at Castro, which is a very pretty town. It’s mostly free of cars, with its narrow streets. We had a nice coffee and lunch, after which I initially decided to walk back to Apollonia and then catch the bus. It was uphill all the way there, but it’s good exercise to do this  for my leg. The church above was on the route. When I got here I decided I would finish the walk off to Kamares, I think I have done nine km that day. I had a tasty jambontiropita and an ice cream from a local baker before I carried on. On route was a church  that one of my friends calls an oasis, he is right it is. It’s very peaceful.

In the evening we were to have dinner at my friends, but an electrical problem meant their cooker was out of action. So we went back to Cameron, and met someone else we all knew there.

The day after I decided to do a walk in the direction of the church on top of a mountain on the other side of the bay from where I was staying. The signpost said it was eight kilometres away, there was another church on the route not as far as that, so I planned to go to just there. It’s uphill of course but not too steep and on a road. There are lots of livestock on the road, mainly cows and goats. We also had a little rain. When I got to the church I could see St Simeon was not much further, there is no way was it eight km from Kamares! Of course the last bit up to the church is very steep! But I made it and there are amazing views of Kamares.

It was quite hot but there was also a nice breeze. It was nice walking down, and I think I caught the sun. The church is quite pretty as well.

Going downhill did not take as long to get down there, and i was soon in one of the cafes enjoying a cooling yoghurt ice cream with cherries. My friends who had an annoying electrical fault on their house, had it fixed by now, so I wandered over for the afternoon. I did buy a spanakopita for a late lunch and saved a small piece for my friends dog, he loves that pie.

On my last full day on Sifnos, I got the bus to Apollonia, and walked past a very traditional coffee shop like the one I know on Serifos. Following steps, I climbed up to have brilliant views of the town. My destination was a friends house near the top. I was treated to some tea and the chick pea meal that they usually have on Sundays. I also had some nice bread with it. I brought along some cake as a gift. I spent a couple of hours chatting to my friend, before walking back to Kamares for a rest then a last dinner at the Italian restaurant called Klaudio where we are all known. Next stop Serifos.